Watch 001 — Spec

Status: In progress — spec v3 confirmed, parts ordered 2026-05-12, awaiting delivery. Open-heart blue showpiece (GS Snowflake homage). Rewritten 2026-05-13 to match the 2026-05-12 Lucius Atelier order (#LA1682225618, $799) — Rob's explicit call. Concept pivoted from v2 stealth-under-cuff dress. Expected arrival 2026-05-14 to 2026-05-18 (Express 2-4 business days).

Concept: GS Snowflake homage on a 36mm Lucius 1908 platform — open-heart blue-accent showpiece that reveals mechanics from both faces.

Revision history

• v3 (this revision) — 2026-05-13: Open-heart blue showpiece. Snowflake Open Heart dial, NH38 Open Heart movement, polished blue luminous Dauphine hands, sapphire display caseback with decorative Côtes de Genève bridge and FPJ Diamond Blue rotor, Shell Cordovan Chocolate strap. All parts ordered 2026-05-12 from Lucius Atelier in a single $799 order. Pivot rationale: Rob's final call after the 2026-05-12 order was placed; the order was self-consistent as an open-heart showpiece and Rob designated it as Watch 001's bill of materials.
• v2 — 2026-05-11 evening: Stealth under-cuff vintage dress watch. Sunburst white pearl sterile dial (Tikko Mods), unlumed polished steel Dauphine hands, Esslinger NH38A standard sweep, Whiskey Horween Worn & Wound strap, solid back preferred. Redirected by v3 before any of these parts were ordered. Sourcing audit preserved at builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_*.md.
• v1 — pre-2026-05-11: Field/sport spec (Tandorio Explorer 39mm case, DSWatch Beige Retro 369 dial, custom C1 Dauphine hands). Redirected 2026-05-11 to v2 before any parts were ordered. Verified data preserved in sourcing/parts_database.md.

Concept

GS Snowflake homage on a 36mm Lucius 1908 platform — an open-heart blue-accent dress showpiece that shows mechanics from both faces: open-heart cutout on the dial reveals the balance wheel, sapphire caseback reveals a Côtes de Genève bridge and an FPJ-Diamond-pattern blue rotor. Blue accents tie the dial (snowflake reflections), hands (polished blue luminous), and rotor (FPJ Diamond Blue) into one cool-tone palette. Chocolate Shell Cordovan strap anchors the cool palette with a warm leather note without going too rustic.

Aesthetic reference

The Grand Seiko Snowflake (SBGA211) is the canonical reference — frosted-textured white dial with snowflake-pattern relief, blue-tipped seconds hand, polished case. This build interprets that aesthetic on a 36mm slim 1908 platform with an open-heart cutout (which the GS Snowflake does not have — this is the "homage with personality" departure). Open-heart cutouts are a Seiko Presage signature; pairing a Snowflake-pattern dial with an open-heart cutout merges two Seiko design languages.

New skill this build introduces

Sapphire caseback assembly with decorative movement parts. Installing a non-stock bridge (Côtes de Genève) and rotor (FPJ Diamond Blue) onto an NH38 movement — both require movement disassembly to swap, before the movement goes into the case. New from the prior dress spec: replaces the "finish-and-color-temperature match across a unified polished palette" skill with a two-color-palette skill — cool blues (hands, rotor) over a frosted-white dial, anchored by a warm chocolate strap. Hand-installing on lumed hands (BGW9) also requires extra care — the Bergeon 7026 polished-tip hand tweezer ordered on 2026-05-12 is the right tool for this.

Case

• Style: Slim polished dress case, open caseback for movement display
• Diameter: 36mm (Lucius 1908 — same as v2 dress spec)
• Thickness: 11.7mm with sapphire back
• Material: 316L stainless steel, fully polished
• Crystal: double-dome sapphire with Clear AR coating (ships installed; seat 28.6mm × 1mm × 1.75mm)
• Dial seat: 28.5mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Lug-to-lug: 43mm
• Crown position: 3.0
• Crown style: SKX-type screw-down (SKX Crown II 1908 6mm Silver, ordered)
• Caseback: sapphire exhibition — load-bearing for aesthetic (display the Côtes de Genève bridge and FPJ Diamond Blue rotor)
• Water resistance: 100m / 10atm (overspec for dress but tied to crown style)
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier — 1908 Watch Case 36mm Ultra Thin NH34-Ready, Sapphire caseback variant
• Price paid: $117 (order line item, 2026-05-12)

Movement

• Model: Seiko (TMI) NH38 Open Heart — Non-Regulated (−20 to +40 sec/day)
• Seconds style: sweep
• Open heart cutout: balance-wheel window aligned with the Snowflake Open Heart dial cutout
• Hand pinion sizes: H=1.5mm, M=0.88mm, S=0.20mm (NH3x family standard)
• Crown position: 3.0
• Decorative parts swapped onto movement before case install:
  • Bridge: NH Movement Bridge — Côtes de Genève — Sunburst — Silver (replaces stock bridge)
  • Rotor: NH Movement Rotor — FPJ Diamond — Blue (replaces stock rotor)
• Stem: Seiko NH Automatic Movement Stem (ordered; trim to crown distance at assembly)
• Accuracy approach: factory unregulated for v3; self-regulate by Build 3–4 once Weishi 1000 timegrapher is on the bench
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• Price paid: $153 (movement) + $69 (bridge) + $38 (rotor) + $6 (stem) = $266 total movement-system cost

Dial

• Style: Snowflake-pattern open-heart dial
• Specific product: Lucius Atelier — Snowflake Dial (Open Heart)
• Diameter: 28.5mm (matches NH38 dial seat)
• Open heart cutout: aligned to NH38 Open Heart balance-wheel window
• Color/texture: Snowflake-pattern relief (GS-SBGA211-inspired) — frosted texture catches light
• Indices: Lucius Snowflake dials typically carry applied polished steel indices with BGW9 lume infill — pairs with the BGW9 hands ordered. Verify exact index style on receipt.
• Logo: Lucius logo position — verify on receipt (Lucius dials are normally sterile center but the Snowflake range may carry branding; Rob to accept or note for future spec correction)
• Quantity ordered: 2 (1 install + 1 spare — Snowflake dials are texture-sensitive; spare hedges against installation handling marks)
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• Price paid: $64 × 2 = $128

Chapter ring

• Specific product: SKX013 Brushed Silver Chapter Ring [Ultra Thin Edition]
• Function: transitions dial OD to case bezel; required component for the 1908 36mm UT case build
• Finish: brushed silver — complements the polished case + the snowflake dial texture without competing
• Quantity ordered: 2 (1 install + 1 spare)
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• Price paid: $21 × 2 = $42

Hands

• Style: Grand Seiko Dauphine
• Specific product: Lucius Atelier — Grand Seiko Dauphine Hands — Polished Blue — Luminous — BGW9 Grade A
• Finish: mirror-polished, blue-finished surface
• Lume: BGW9 (blue-glow) — pairs with the BGW9 indices on the Snowflake dial
• Hand lengths: to verify on receipt against Lucius 1908 36mm UT crystal clearance (spec.md v2 captured this constraint — second hand ≤11.5mm per Lucius case page warning; hour and minute lengths H=8 / M=12.5mm assumed)
• Tube IDs: critical pre-install check — must match NH38 pinions exactly (H=1.5 / M=0.88 / S=0.20mm). Confirm on receipt before pressing onto pinions.
• Quantity ordered: 2 sets (1 install + 1 spare)
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• Price paid: $48 × 2 = $96

Crown

• Specific product: SKX Crown II — 1908 Presage — 6mm — Silver
• Style: screw-down, polished silver finish, matches case finish
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• Price paid: $21

Strap

• Specific product: Lucius Atelier — Shell Cordovan Leather Strap 20/16mm — Chocolate, Full Stitch — Large (18.5–21.0cm)
• Material: Shell cordovan (horse leather — distinct from Horween Chromexcel cow leather)
• Color: chocolate (darker, cooler-warm than the v2 spec's Whiskey)
• Width: 20/16mm (20mm at lug, tapers to 16mm at buckle)
• Length: Large (18.5–21.0cm) — Rob to confirm wrist sizing on receipt
• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• Price paid: $129

Total cost summary

Pre-install verification list (on arrival)

1. Hands tube IDs — H=1.5 / M=0.88 / S=0.20mm against NH38 pinions. Critical: if off-size, hands will not seat.
2. Second hand length — measure ≤11.5mm to clear Lucius 1908 36mm UT crystal dome.
3. Snowflake dial indices — verify applied steel + BGW9 lume infill (vs. printed). Photograph for the build_log.
4. Dial-to-movement alignment — Snowflake open-heart cutout must align with NH38 Open Heart balance window. Test-fit before final install.
5. Decorative bridge and rotor fit — confirm Lucius decorative parts are NH38-compatible (Lucius lists them for the NH family but verify mounting screws and rotor bearing match the NH38 specifically, not just NH35/NH36).
6. Chapter ring orientation — SKX013 chapter rings have a fixed orientation (some markers index against 12 o'clock); align before dial install.
7. Lume reaction match — both dial (BGW9 indices) and hands (BGW9) should charge and glow at matching intensity/duration. Test under UV before install.
8. Strap fit — Large size for Rob's 8" wrist; confirm at try-on, sourcing alternative size from Lucius if needed.

Bench tools required for this build

• Bergeon 6899 screwdriver set (still on wishlist as of 2026-05-13)
• Dumont #3 / #5 anti-magnetic tweezers (wishlist)
• Horotec 64.035 3-position hand press ✓ acquired 2026-05-12 ($229)
• Bergeon 7026-CP-2A polished-tip hand-installing tweezer ✓ acquired 2026-05-12 ($99.95)
• Bergeon 4040 movement holder (wishlist)
• Crystal press w/ die set (wishlist) — not needed for this build since the Lucius case ships with crystal installed
• Rodico 7033 (wishlist)
• AmScope SM-4TZ-144A stereo microscope (wishlist — priority)

Parts not yet ordered

• Bench tools above marked (wishlist) per tools/bench_inventory.md
• No outstanding parts for Watch 001 itself — the 2026-05-12 Lucius ord

Watch 001 — Parts List

Source of truth for order status. Status values: proposed → ordered → shipped → received → installed. Special states: redirected (sourced against an obsolete spec version), tbd (target locked but specific part not sourced yet).

2026-05-11 spec redirect: Watch 001 redirected from field/sport → vintage dress under-cuff. Movement and strap survived; case, dial, hands, and crystal need fresh sourcing against spec.md v2026-05-11. Old sport-spec parts kept in this file as redirected for one revision so the history is visible; will be pruned to parts_database.md only after Rob signs off on the dress spec.

2026-05-12 Lucius Atelier order placed (Order #LA1682225618, $799 total, Express 2-4 business days, $0 shipping). Watch 001's bill of materials. Spec pivoted 2026-05-13 (Rob's call) from v2 stealth-dress to v3 open-heart blue showpiece — see spec.md revision history. Rows below reflect the actual order; v2 spec parts are kept as redirected (superseded) for audit until pruned to parts_database.md.

Spares / consumables

(gaskets, case back o-rings, pressure-test plugs, etc. — add as decided)

Items doubled in the 2026-05-12 order (spares strategy):

• Snowflake Open Heart dial — qty 2 ordered, 1 install + 1 spare
• GS Dauphine Blue Luminous hands — qty 2 sets ordered, 1 install + 1 spare
• SKX013 Brushed Silver Chapter Ring Ultra Thin — qty 2 ordered, 1 install + 1 spare

Spec pivot 2026-05-13 — concept change confirmed by Rob

Rob's final call (2026-05-13): the 2026-05-12 Lucius order is Watch 001's bill of materials. Spec.md rewritten to v3 (open-heart blue showpiece, GS Snowflake homage). v2 dress spec preserved at the top of spec.md as revision history. Sourcing audit for v2 preserved under builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_*.md. No spec contradictions remain.

Why old rows are gone

The previous parts.md had detailed "blocked — Rob decision pending" notes on dial, hands, and crystal from the 2026-05-11 wide sourcing pass under the prior spec. That work is preserved at builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_*.md and in sourcing/parts_database.md. It's not lost; it's just no longer on the active worklist because the spec changed.

Watch 001 — Build Plan (zero → wrist)

The full sequence from "parts being sourced today" to "watch on the wrist, performing in spec, declared done." Every phase carries: required tools, expected duration, failure modes, verification step before moving to the next phase.

This is the canonical reference. Don't memorize it — read it before each bench session.

Phase 0 — Sourcing (in progress)

Goal: Every part verified, ordered, and tracked.

Status today (2026-05-10)

Sourcing exit criterion

All six parts on the way (or in hand). No part still in proposed or blocked status in parts.md.

Expected calendar

• Movement (Esslinger US): 3–7 days
• Case (Tandorio HK): 3–12 days
• Strap (Windup Watch Shop US): 2–5 days
• Dial (DSWatch China): 7–30 days standard, 3–7 FedEx — plus however long DSWatch takes to reply on beige restock
• Hands (DSWatch custom): unknown until quote arrives — likely 4–8 weeks for a custom commission
• Crystal (Cousins UK → US): account-creation → measure case on arrival → order → 7–14 days ship

Realistic Phase 0 → Phase 2 transition: 4–8 weeks from today.

Phase 1 — Bench bring-up (parallel to sourcing)

Goal: Bench is ready before parts arrive, not after. The microscope alone can take 1–2 weeks to reach the door, so it's the schedule-critical tool.

Tools to acquire

Update tools/bench_inventory.md as each item arrives.

Bench setup

• Stable, flat surface — minimum 24"×36" working area
• Microscope mounted on boom stand, eye-level when seated
• Soft mat directly under microscope
• Ring light on; secondary goose-neck angle light if available
• Bench drawer or tray for in-progress small parts (so a sneeze doesn't lose the second-hand spring)
• Phone on silent / out of reach during bench sessions
• Rodico in lid-on storage when not in use (it dries out)

Practice run (skill calibration)

Before any real part touches the bench, run a practice session:

1. Buy a junk donor — a sub-$30 working NH35 quartz watch off a non-Amazon source, or Esslinger's NH3x movement-only practice piece.
2. Open the donor caseback. Practice tweezer-handling tiny screws.
3. Pull the donor's hands with a hand-puller (acquire if not on the list — Bergeon 5460 is the standard). Re-press them. This is what hand-setting feels like under load.
4. Practice with the screwdrivers — feel the torque. Watch screws are softer than your instinct expects.

This practice session is not optional. Watch 001 is not the place to first feel the hand-press.

Phase 1 exit criterion

• All bench tools in hand and laid out
• Practice run on a donor completed
• Microscope working at full magnification with crisp focus

Phase 2 — Parts arrival inspection

Goal: Confirm every part arrived to spec. Catch defects before assembly when they're still returnable.

Per-part inspection checklist

Movement (Esslinger Hattori NH38A):

• Movement is sealed in original Hattori packaging
• Crown wheel turns smoothly when winding via crown
• Rotor swings freely, no scrape or rub
• Hand pinions visually clean, no debris in the dial side
• Power reserve: wind 20 turns, dial face up, observe — should run for at least 24 hours fully wound (full 41 hours expected, 24 is the "alive and well" threshold)
• Verify "NH38A" stamping (not NH35, not NH36) — Esslinger SKU says "NH38" but the photo confirmed NH38A; double-check

Case (Tandorio Explorer 39mm silver case-only):

• Case material 316L confirmed (magnet test — should not attract; 316L is austenitic non-magnetic stainless)
• Sapphire crystal scratch-free (check at angle under bright light)
• Caseback option chosen: solid steel for Watch 001 sport/field aesthetic
• Calipers — measure: dial seat ID (target 28.5mm), lug width (target 20mm), lug-to-lug (target 48mm), case OD (target 39mm), crown position 3.0 (visual)
• Crystal seat ID measured with calipers — write this down; it's the number Cousins UK needs for crystal sourcing
• Crown screws down cleanly; threads not cross-threaded
• Caseback gasket present and intact
• Case finish — check for shipping damage, polish defects, brushing inconsistency

Dial (DSWatch Beige Retro 369):

• Under microscope: indices clean, lume application even, no dust under the lume
• Lume color matches the spec colorway (beige if restocked, or whichever substitute DSWatch supplies)
• No print errors on minute track
• Foot pattern visible — confirm both sets of feet (3.0+9.0 and 3.8+9.8) are present
• Dial diameter measures 28.5mm (calipers)
• Dial thickness measures 0.6mm (calipers)
• Dial sits flat on a flat surface (no warp)

Hands (DSWatch custom Dauphine C1):

• Polished surface clean, no fingerprints, no scratches
• Lume application even on hour and minute (and second if specified)
• C1 lume color visually matches dial under UV (charge with phone flashlight, verify both glow same shade)
• Tube ID visual check — under microscope, tube edge is clean, no burrs
• Hand lengths approximately match spec — eyeball relative to dial diameter

Strap (W&W Model 2 Premium Whiskey 20mm):

• Color matches spec
• Stitching intact, no loose threads
• Buckle stamped "STAINLESS STEEL"
• Spring bars included or available

Crystal (Cousins UK domed sapphire — once ordered):

• OD matches case seat ID (as confirmed by Tandorio email)
• AR coating present (interior tint shows blue-ish at angle)
• No edge chips, no center scratches

Phase 2 exit criterion

Every part passes its checklist. Photograph each. Log condition in notes.md. If a part fails, return it before assembly — once a part is touched in assembly, return windows close.

Phase 3 — Dial foot trimming

Goal: Trim the dial feet so the dial sits flat on the NH38A foot holes (3.0 / 9.0 positions).

Duration: 30–60 minutes once the bench is set. Plan a full evening so you don't rush.

Tools

• Microscope, soft mat, end-cutting nippers (fine jaw), Dumont #3 tweezers, dial-shaped padded surface (small foam pad with a 28.5mm cutout), masking tape, Rodico

Procedure

1. Verify the NH38A foot pattern. NH3x family standard is 3.0 / 9.0 o'clock — this is what to keep.
2. Place dial face-down on a 28.5mm-cutout foam pad so the feet stick up and the indices are protected.
3. Under microscope, identify the 4 feet. Two pairs: one pair at 3.0/9.0, one pair at 3.8/9.8 (or whatever the second pair turns out to be — the DSWatch product page documents 3.0+3.8).
4. Mark the feet to remove with a tiny piece of masking tape on the dial back near each — this is your last line of defense against snipping the wrong feet.
5. With end-cutting nippers, snip each "remove" foot flush with the dial back. Snip flush. Leaving stub stops the dial from seating; over-cutting risks crushing the dial.
6. Under microscope, verify no burrs remain at each cut. If a burr exists, very gently file with the nipper edge — do not use a metal file (scratches the dial back).
7. Dry-fit the dial onto the NH38A. Feet should drop into the foot holes with very light resistance. If the dial rocks, either a foot wasn't trimmed flush, or the indices on the dial face are catching the chapter ring.

Failure modes + recovery

• Cut the wrong feet: unrecoverable; dial is scrap. Buy another at $29 + lead time. Mitigation: the masking-tape pre-mark step.
• Cut both pairs of feet: unrecoverable; dial cannot register on the movement. Same mitigation.
• Cut leaves a burr: recoverable with careful filing flush, but if the burr is the size of the foot stem, the dial will not sit flat. Dial may need rebuy.
• Dial rocks after seating: identify cause — uncut foot, dial-face dust, chapter ring fouling. Pull dial, inspect, retry.

Phase 3 exit criterion

Dial sits flat on movement, no rock, no gap visible at the dial edge under microscope.

Phase 4 — Hand setting (highest-risk single step in the whole build)

Goal: Hour, minute, second hands installed, indexed correctly, clearing the dial and each other through a full 12-hour cycle.

Duration: 1–2 hours under the microscope. Slow down here.

Tools

• Microscope at 10–20×, ring light on, goose-neck angle light if available
• Bergeon 4040 movement holder
• Horotec hand press with plastic-tipped dies (sized to the hand tube — hour H=1.5mm, minute M=0.88mm, second S=0.20mm)
• Dumont #5 tweezers (for handling hands)
• Rodico (for picking up dropped hands)

Procedure

1. Movement loaded into 4040 holder. Stem in, crown free.
2. Wind 5 turns (just enough to allow time-set), then crown out to time-setting position. Set hour wheel to 12:00 by manually advancing.
3. Hour hand first. Pick up with Dumont #5 by the tail (not the lume), hold over the hour pinion. Lower until the tube fits over the pinion, then with the press, press straight down — light, smooth pressure until the hand is seated.
4. Verify alignment: hour hand should point exactly to 12:00 marker on the dial. If off, very gently adjust with tweezers (do not press again — re-pressing distorts the tube).
5. Minute hand. Same procedure. Align with hour hand exactly at 12:00.
6. Second hand. This is the smallest tube. Align over the center seconds pinion. Press. The second hand should sit at 0/60.
7. Clearance check: with crown advancing time, run through 12 full hours. Watch for:
   • Hour vs dial — should not rub
   • Minute vs hour — should not collide
   • Second vs minute / hour — should not collide
   • Second vs dial — should not rub
8. If any rub, hands are too low — gently lift with hand-puller and re-press at slightly higher tube position. If too high, hands sit "tall" and look wrong.

Failure modes + recovery

• Bent second hand: the most common bench injury. Tube ID is 0.20mm; even minor lateral force during press bends it. Recovery: replace second hand. Order spares with the original.
• Pressed too hard, tube cracked: hand falls off in service. Recovery: remove hand, replace.
• Hand-to-dial rub: lift and re-press. If still rubbing, hand is over-deep; consider whether the tube is over-pressed.
• Minute and hour collide: indexing error during initial alignment. Lift both, restart hand setting from step 3.
• Lume damage from tweezers: unrecoverable for that hand. Replace.

Phase 4 exit criterion

12 full hours of time advance with zero rubs, zero collisions, no hand drift.

Phase 5 — Movement-to-case fitting

Goal: Movement sits flat in the case, crown stem aligns with case crown tube, caseback closes flush.

Duration: 30 minutes typically.

Tools

• 4040 movement holder
• Stem cutter (small) + needle file
• Bench loupe
• Dial spacer ring if case requires (some Tandorio cases do — verify on inspection)

Procedure

1. With movement still in 4040 holder, pull the crown stem.
2. Trim stem to length: insert movement into case (without crown), measure the gap between movement stem hole and case crown tube. Cut stem so that when threaded back into the movement, the crown sits flush against the case at full screw-down.
3. File the cut stem end flat — burrs prevent the crown from threading on cleanly.
4. Re-insert the trimmed stem into the movement. Test the crown screws onto the stem and screws into the case crown tube, all the way home, no cross-threading.
5. Settle the movement into the case. Should sit flat. If it rocks, check for a foreign particle in the case base, or for a dial-spacer ring that's missing.
6. Verify movement is centered — crown stem hole aligns with the case crown tube.

Failure modes + recovery

• Crown won't screw down fully: stem is too long, file more length off.
• Crown sits proud (won't sit flush): stem is too short — replace stem ($5, available from Esslinger or Cousins).
• Movement rocks in case: debris under movement, or wrong dial-spacer height. Lift movement, inspect case interior with Rodico, retry.

Phase 5 exit criterion

Crown screws fully down to flush, movement sits flat without rocking, dial and hands visible through the crystal seat without obstruction.

Phase 6 — Crystal pressing (NEW SKILL for this build)

Goal: Domed sapphire crystal seated cleanly into the case, no chip, no gap, no over-pressure damage.

Duration: 15 minutes when it goes well, 1+ hour when it doesn't. Allow the time.

Tools

• Crystal press (already on the bench)
• Die set sized to the crystal — the die diameter should be just barely smaller than the crystal OD (the press should contact the crystal lip, not the dome)
• Silicon grease (very thin coat)
• Microfiber cloth
• Bergeon UV-cure crystal adhesive (optional, for edge seal)
• UV light (small handheld) if using adhesive

Procedure

1. Verify crystal OD matches case seat ID (already verified pre-order via the Tandorio email reply). If by chance the crystal arrived oversized, do not press it — return.
2. Apply a very thin coat of silicon grease to the case crystal seat (lubricates the press, helps the crystal seat without micro-binding).
3. Place crystal in seat, dome up.
4. Select the die that matches the crystal OD. Die should contact the crystal at the lip (the flat edge) — never on the dome. A die that hits the dome will crack the crystal.
5. Lower press die onto crystal. Apply pressure smoothly until the crystal seats — usually you'll feel a very small "set" as the crystal drops the last fraction of a millimeter.
6. Stop pressing immediately upon set. Continued pressure cracks the crystal or distorts the case lip.
7. Inspect under microscope: crystal should sit flush, no gap visible at the seat edge. If a gap is visible, the crystal isn't fully seated; reapply pressure very lightly.
8. Optional: apply a thin bead of UV-cure adhesive at the crystal-seat edge from inside the case (before pressing) or after pressing if the case allows access. Cure with UV light for 30 seconds.

Failure modes + recovery

• Crystal cracks during press: unrecoverable; replace crystal. Caused by die hitting dome instead of lip, or by over-pressure.
• Crystal seats unevenly (sits at angle): lift gently with a fingernail or pegwood, reseat, re-press.
• Crystal sits proud: under-pressure; press again with slightly more force.
• Crystal won't seat at all: OD is too big, or seat has debris. Inspect, clean, retry.
• Case lip distorted (visible bend at the crystal seat from inside): over-pressure damage. Case may still be usable but the crystal seat is now slightly oversized; verify crystal still seats with no gap.

Phase 6 exit criterion

Crystal flush in seat, no visible gap at any angle under microscope, case lip undistorted.

Phase 7 — Caseback fit and seal

Goal: Caseback installed with gasket, screwed down to spec, water-resistant seal achieved.

Duration: 15 minutes.

Tools

• Caseback wrench (Bergeon screw-back wrench — add to bench list if not present)
• Silicon grease
• Caseback gasket (came with case)
• Dial spacer ring if needed

Procedure

1. Inspect the caseback gasket — clean, undamaged, no kinks.
2. Apply very thin layer of silicon grease to the gasket (helps it compress evenly).
3. Place gasket in the caseback gasket groove.
4. Hand-thread the caseback onto the case body — verify alignment first (no cross-threading).
5. Use the caseback wrench to torque the caseback down. Tighten until firm but not over-torqued — the gasket should compress evenly without squeezing out.
6. Verify the caseback sits flush against the case (no gap).

Phase 7 exit criterion

Caseback fully seated, no gap, gasket evenly compressed, no over-torque damage to the caseback fittings.

Phase 8 — First power-on + accuracy baseline

Goal: Movement runs, all hands sweep correctly, baseline accuracy noted.

Duration: 30 minutes active + 24 hours observation.

Tools

• Phone (for time reference)
• Notebook for recording rate

Procedure

1. Wind crown ~30 turns to fully wind the mainspring.
2. Set time precisely against a phone clock.
3. Observe hand sweep for 10 minutes:
   • Second hand should beat 6 times per second (21,600 vph) — looks like a smooth-ish stutter
   • No hand drag, no rotor noise, no audible click
4. Set on a flat surface, dial up.
5. After 24 hours, check rate:
   • Compare current time to phone reference
   • If +5 sec to +35 sec: in spec for unregulated NH38A (factory −20 to +40)
   • If outside spec: send to a regulator (Lucius offers this), or wait for Build 2 timegrapher
6. Acceptance for Build 1: any rate within factory spec is OK. Self-regulation comes online by Build 3.

Phase 8 exit criterion

Movement runs through 24 hours dial-up without stopping. Rate noted. Decision made: ship as-is, or send to regulator.

Phase 9 — Strap fit + final inspection

Goal: Strap mounted, watch ready for the wrist.

Duration: 5 minutes.

Tools

• Spring bar tool (Bergeon 6767-F)
• Spring bars (came with strap or case)

Procedure

1. Insert spring bars into the strap.
2. Compress one end of the spring bar, slide into one lug hole, release into the other.
3. Repeat for the second strap end.
4. Visual final inspection:
   • Crystal clean, no fingerprints
   • Hands clean, no fingerprints
   • Crown screwed down
   • Caseback flush
   • Strap centered, sized roughly to wrist

Phase 9 exit criterion

Watch on the wrist, comfortable, no immediate issues visible.

Phase 10 — 14-day wear-test

Goal: Confirm watch survives daily wear without losing rate, leaking, or mechanical failure.

Duration: 14 consecutive days minimum.

Daily checks (each evening)

• Crystal still clean and clear (no internal fog = water-tight)
• Crown still screws down cleanly (no thread damage)
• All hands still sweeping (no hand fall)
• Rate still in spec (compare to phone clock)
• Strap holding (no buckle slip, no lug-bar pop)

Avoid during wear-test

• No swimming, no shower, no extended hand-wash with the watch on (water-resistance has not been pressure-tested)
• No magnets (laptop speakers are typically fine; MagSafe chargers are not — keep watch off the charger)
• No drops or impacts

Failure modes during wear-test

• Hand falls: unrecoverable in-service; back to bench Phase 4.
• Crystal pops or fogs: seal failure; back to bench Phase 6.
• Crown unscrews unexpectedly: stem may be backing out; back to bench Phase 5.
• Rate drift outside spec: send to regulator if Build 1 timegrapher isn't on the bench yet.

Phase 10 exit criterion

14 consecutive days, no failure mode triggered, rate within spec.

Phase 11 — Ship / no-ship decision

Goal: Declare Watch 001 done.

If Phase 10 passed cleanly:

• Append a ## YYYY-MM-DD — Watch 001 shipped entry to builds/watch_001/build_log.md and to repo-level LOG.md.
• Update parts.md so every row reads installed.
• Update tools/bench_inventory.md Owned section with every tool acquired.
• Promote any cross-build lessons from notes.md to sourcing/compatibility_notes.md and sourcing/parts_database.md.
• Move the journey roadmap to "Watch 1 complete; Watch 2 next."

If Phase 10 failed:

• Document the failure mode in build_log.md and notes.md.
• Return to the failing phase (4, 5, 6, or 8 depending on failure).
• Re-run the affected phase + all subsequent phases.
• Re-start the 14-day wear test from day zero.

The wear-test is non-negotiable. A watch isn't done because it ticks. It's done because it survives 14 consecutive days on the wrist without a single failure.

Quick summary — the build at a glance

Active bench time end-to-end: ~5–7 hours across one or two evenings. Plus 4–8 weeks of sourcing and 14 days of wear-test before the build is declared done.

Watch 001 — Build Log

Append-only chronological journal. New entries go at the bottom under a dated header.

Format: ## YYYY-MM-DD — short title

2026-05-09 — Project initialized

Spec confirmed. Sourcing in progress. No parts ordered yet.

2026-05-12 — Lucius Atelier order placed (#LA1682225618, $799)

Full bill of materials ordered in a single transaction from Lucius Atelier. Express 2-4 business days, $0 shipping. Order confirmation email from Adriel @ [email protected] received 2026-05-12. Tracking pending — Adriel will email on ship.

Line items:

Adriel's customs note flagged in the order email: if customs or courier reaches out asking for clearance docs/invoices/order details, contact Adriel directly — do NOT forward the order email to customs. Standard Lucius shipping practice for international orders to avoid customs delays.

2026-05-13 — Spec pivoted v2 → v3 (Rob's call)

The 2026-05-12 order substantially deviated from the v2 locked spec (stealth under-cuff vintage dress). Surfaced the deviations to Rob via the parts.md contradiction table; Rob's reply: "log it and change the spec.md - it's my final choice." spec.md rewritten to v3 — open-heart blue showpiece, GS Snowflake homage. v2 dress spec preserved at the top of spec.md as revision history. Sourcing audit for v2 preserved under builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_*.md. No spec contradictions remain — bill of materials is fully ordered, awaiting delivery (~2026-05-14 to 2026-05-18 Express estimate).

2026-05-12 — Bench tools order

Two bench tools purchased alongside the Lucius parts order (separate transaction, supplier likely Esslinger — confirm):

• Horotec Watch Tool Hand Press, 3-position — 64.035 — $229.00
• Bergeon 7026 Special Watch Hands Installing Tweezer, Polished Tips — 7026-CP-2A — $99.95

Both logged in tools/bench_inventory.md under Owned. The Horotec retires wishlist row #5 (Hand press set); the Bergeon 7026 was not on the original wishlist but is the right tool for installing the BGW9-lumed Polished Blue Dauphine hands on this build (polished tips won't mar the blue-finished hand surface).

Watch 001 — Notes

Free-form observations, mistakes, things to remember for future builds. Items here that generalize beyond watch_001 should be promoted to sourcing/compatibility_notes.md or sourcing/parts_database.md.

2026-05-11 — Spec redirect from field/sport to vintage dress

Rob shared four reference images (Cowork session) showing what he actually wants for Watch 1: vintage dress watches designed to slip under a long-sleeve cuff. Slim polished cases, sunburst or matte cream dials, applied stick or Roman-numeral indices, polished hands, minimal-to-no lume, leather straps. Two of the four images are confirmed as the DIY Watch Club Mosel kit (35mm Silver and 35mm Silver × Rose Gold variants). The other two are unidentified dress watches in the same genre.

The active spec.md at that point described a field/sport watch: Tandorio Explorer case, DSWatch Beige Retro 369 dial with C1 lume plots, C1 Dauphine hands. Those were the wrong genre — Rob asked me to redirect to the dress aesthetic (Path B per the Cowork conversation: self-source against the dress spec, not buy a kit).

Lesson for future spec authoring: when Rob says "vintage-inspired", that's underspecified. Vintage-inspired sport (Explorer/Submariner-style with patina lume plots) and vintage-inspired dress (1950s-60s dress watch with applied indices and no lume) are different genres with non-overlapping component shelves. Get the genre locked before writing the compatibility chain. Reference images settle this faster than written words.

What survived the redirect:

• Movement: Esslinger Hattori NH38A ($89.95 USD, in stock, vetted) — fits 28.5mm dial seat in both genres
• Strap: Worn & Wound Model 2 Premium Horween Whiskey 20mm ($99 USD, in stock, vetted) — survives because warm-tone strap matches the new sunburst silver dial well; would be cancelled only if Rob switches to 18mm lug width

What needs re-sourcing:

• Case: dress case, polished bezel, push-in crown (not screw-down), ≤11mm thick. Tandorio Explorer is out.
• Dial: sunburst silver, applied stick indices, no date, no lume. DSWatch Beige Retro 369 is out.
• Hands: polished steel Dauphine, unlumed (or minimal-fill). DSWatch custom C1 commission is cancelled.
• Crystal: domed sapphire, OD per new case. Tandorio crystal-seat-ID email is moot.

What's preserved as audit trail (not pruned):

• builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_dial_sourcing_pass.md — 8 dial candidates under old spec
• builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_hands_sourcing_pass.md — 11 hands candidates under old spec
• builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_crystal_seat_research.md — Tandorio crystal seat research
• builds/watch_001/emails/tandorio_crystal_seat.md — drafted but now moot
• builds/watch_001/emails/dswatch_beige_restock.md — drafted but now moot

The 11-candidate hands list is partially recyclable for the dress spec: most candidates were rejected only because they shipped C3 or BGW9 lume instead of C1. With lume requirement dropped, several rejects become candidates. The dial pass is fully obsolete — every candidate was a field-style dial.

Open follow-ups (added 2026-05-11)

• Sourcing paused until Rob signs off on the rewritten spec.md (eight Open Items listed there).
• After sign-off, the first sourcing pass should target the case (slim polished dress case is the constraining piece — once the case is locked, dial seat, lug width, crystal seat ID, and total wrist height all follow).