Parts Database

Catalog of parts evaluated or used across builds. Include parts that didn't work — that's often more valuable than the ones that did.

Schema

Each entry should capture: part type, model/SKU, supplier, key dimensions, builds used in, verdict (good / acceptable / avoid / rejected / redirected / tbd), and reasoning.

Verdict redirected means the part was vetted under a prior spec version that has since been changed. The verification data is still valid; the part is no longer the right fit because the spec moved. Useful to leave in the database so a future build that returns to the original spec direction can pick up the work.

2026-05-11 spec redirect — Watch 001 field/sport → vintage dress

Affected entries below carry redirected verdicts: Tandorio Explorer Watch Case 36mm/39mm, DSWatch Beige Retro 369 Wave Dial, all C1 Dauphine hand evaluations (NamokiMODS Lumed Dauphine, seikomods CT8125, Watch and Style H1227, Lucius BGW9 GS Dauphine), DSWatch Custom Dauphine C1, the 2026-05-11 hands-rejects list, the 2026-05-11 dial-rejects list, and the Tandorio crystal seat research entries. The verification work on each is still valid — the parts simply don't fit the new dress spec. See builds/watch_001/notes.md for the redirect rationale and builds/watch_001/spec.md for the new spec.

Cases

Tandorio Explorer TD110A 36mm/39mm — COMPLETE WATCH (rejected for watch_001)

• Supplier: Tandorio
• URL: https://tandoriowatch.com/products/tandorio-explorer-td110a-36mm-39mm (live 2026-05-10)
• What it actually is: complete watch with NH35A movement, OEM dial, OEM hands, OEM bracelet — NOT a bare case
• Page-verified 2026-05-10: $122.45 USD (sale from $148.14, 17% OFF), 316L stainless, sapphire crystal, screw-in 3 o'clock crown, 20ATM/200m, 13mm thickness, dial size 28.5–29.2mm, NH35A movement
• Used in: considered for watch_001
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — wrong product. spec.md / paste pointed at this URL but Rob wants a bare case to swap into; this includes a date-wheel NH35A movement that would conflict with the no-date dial spec. Buying this would mean discarding the OEM dial, hands, movement, bracelet to keep just the case — wasteful at $122 vs $36 for the actual case-only listing below.

Tandorio Explorer Watch Case 36mm/39mm (case-only) — Watch 001 case

• Supplier: Tandorio
• URL: https://tandoriowatch.com/products/explorer-watch-case-36mm-39mm-silver-rose-gold-yellow-gold-two-tone (live 2026-05-10)
• Page-verified 2026-05-10: $36.35 USD list (51% OFF from $73.44), US tariff included in displayed price, free shipping 3-12 days, 2yr warranty, 15-day returns
• Material: 316L stainless steel ✓
• Crystal: Sapphire ✓
• Case diameter: 36mm or 39mm
• Case thickness: 11.8mm (36mm) / 12.2mm (39mm)
• Lug-to-lug: 46mm (36mm) / 48mm (39mm) — spec.md asserts 48.2mm at 39mm; 0.2mm variance, likely measurement difference
• Compatible dial size: 28.5mm ✓
• Strap (lug) width: 20mm ✓
• Water resistance: 100m (10ATM)
• Movement compatibility: NH35, NH36, NH34, NH38, NH70, 4R36, Miyota 8215/8205/8285 ✓
• Case back options: Transparent glass back OR solid stainless steel back (Rob picks; Watch 001 sport/field aesthetic argues for solid steel)
• Case finishes: Silver, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold, Two-Tone (Watch 001 spec → Silver)
• Crown position: ✗ not stated in spec table — need Tandorio email confirmation (bundled into crystal-seat email)
• Screw-down crown: ⚠ not stated explicitly — 100m WR implies but confirm
• Used in: watch_001 (originally — now redirected)
• Verdict: redirected 2026-05-11 — spec changed from field/sport to vintage dress; Tandorio Explorer is the wrong genre (sport tool case with screw-down crown). Verification data above stays valid; case is no longer in Watch 001 spec. Re-evaluate for a future field/sport build (Watch 002+).
• Notes (2026-05-10): Tandorio site banner reads 10% Discount Code for Watches only : summer — the SUMMER code does NOT apply to case parts. Email asks for confirmation.

Cases — 2026-05-11 dress case sourcing pass (Watch 001)

Full audit trail at builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_case_sourcing_pass.md. Structural finding: every boutique modder dress case in the 36–39mm × 28.5mm × 20mm × NH3x slot uses screw-down crown + 100m+ WR for daily-wear durability. Push-in dress cases exist on Tandorio's dress catalog only in wrong dimensional class (39.5mm × 33.5mm dial × 22mm lug). DIY Watch Club Mosel is the right aesthetic but Miyota-locked. Recommendation deferred to Rob — single decision: accept screw-down (Lucius 1908) or hold push-in rule and extend search.

Lucius Atelier 1908 Watch Case 36mm Ultra Thin NH34-Ready — Watch 001 leading candidate

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier (Singapore, ISO 9001 Swiss production quality, established modder boutique)
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/1908-watch-case-36mm-ultra-thin-edition-nh34-ready (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $97 USD list, free worldwide shipping per banner. Sapphire-caseback variant in stock. Solid-caseback variant SOLD OUT.
• Case Diameter: 36mm ✓ (within 36–39mm range)
• Case Thickness: 10.75mm solid back / 11.7mm sapphire back. Solid back was ✓ under 11mm target; sapphire back ⚠ over 11mm target but under 12mm hard ceiling.
• Lug to Lug: 43mm ✓
• Lug Width: 20mm ✓
• Material: 316L stainless steel, fully polished ✓
• Dial seat: 28.5mm ✓ (page states "compatible with all 28.5mm dials")
• Crystal: Double-Domed Sapphire with Clear AR included. Crystal seat: 28.6mm OD × 1mm × 1.75mm
• Crown style: ✗ SKX-type screw-down crown (page literal: "Crown — SKX crowns")
• Crown position: 3.0 (verified inferentially from SKX crown family + product photos)
• Water Resistance: 100m / 10atm ✗ (overspec; tied to screw-down crown)
• Movement compat: Type M of NH34, NH35, NH36, NH38, NH70, NH71, NH72 ✓ (NH38A compatible)
• Casebacks: Solid (sold out) or Sapphire (in stock). Spec prefers solid for under-cuff aesthetic; accepts sapphire for journey/skill.
• Used in: watch_001 (leading candidate, pending Rob decision)
• Verdict: tbd — closest fit by a wide margin, blocked on the screw-down vs push-in crown decision. Order today if Rob relaxes the push-in rule. Otherwise commission a custom push-in dress case or extend search to Taobao.

Lucius Atelier 62GS Watch Case 36mm Ultra Thin NH34-Ready

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/62gs-watch-case-36mm-ultra-thin-edition-nh34-ready (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $174–$199 SGD (≈ $129–$148 USD)
• Case Diameter: 36mm
• Thickness: 11.6mm solid / 12.5mm sapphire (sapphire variant exceeds 12mm hard ceiling)
• Lug Width: 20mm
• L2L: 43mm
• Material: 316L, multi-surfaced with alternating polished and brushed finishes ✗ (spec wants fully polished)
• Crystal: Box-shaped Sapphire with Clear AR (31mm × 4.56mm) ✗ (spec wants moderate dome, not box)
• Crown: ✗ Screw-down Type, 4 o'clock position (spec requires push-in at 3.0)
• WR: 100m / 10atm ✗
• Difficulty: Page states "ONLY recommended for professional watchmakers and highly skilled/experienced modders" — second-build risk
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — four critical-field violations (4 o'clock crown, screw-down, box crystal, mixed finish). Wrong genre — bezel-less GMT-ready tool case despite "GS" name.

Lucius Atelier Seikonaut Watch Case 38mm Ultra Thin NH-Ready

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/seikonaut-watch-case-38mm-ultra-thin-edition (live 2026-05-11)
• Case Diameter: 38mm ✓
• Thickness: 10mm solid / 10.9mm sapphire ✓ (under 11mm target)
• Lug Width: 20mm ✓
• Crystal: ✗ Flat Sapphire (spec wants moderate dome)
• Crown: ✗ Screw down
• WR: 100m / 10atm ✗
• Genre: Sport oyster style (Seikonaut = Seiko-Nautilus genealogy)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — dimensionally bullseye but wrong genre (sport, not dress). Flat crystal + screw-down crown disqualify on aesthetics.

Lucius Atelier Grand Seiko Watch Case 36mm v2

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/gs-watch-case-36mm-v2 (live 2026-05-11)
• Case Diameter: 36mm
• Thickness: ✗ 12.8mm solid / 13.3mm sapphire (over 12mm hard ceiling)
• Lug Width: 20mm
• Crystal: Double Domed Sapphire with Clear AR ✓
• Crown: ✗ Screw down
• WR: ✗ 200m / 20atm (heavy overspec)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — exceeds thickness ceiling, screw-down, 200m WR. Dress in name only; spec'd as a 200m diver.

NamokiMODS NMK940 GS Dress Watch Case Bundle w Strap: Steel Finish

• Supplier: NamokiMODS (Philippines)
• URL: https://www.namokimods.com/products/nmk940-gs-dress-watch-case-steel-finish (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $119 USD, SOLD OUT
• Case Diameter: 37.3mm ✓
• Thickness: 7.3mm case only / 11.25mm total with crystal and slim caseback ✓
• L2L: 44.3mm ✓
• Lug Width: ✗ 19mm (spec is 20mm; would orphan the Whiskey Horween 20mm strap order)
• Crystal: ✗ Top Hat Box Crystal (Clear AR) — spec wants moderate dome, not box
• Chapter ring: Integrated brushed chapter ring (mixed-finish concern with fully-polished spec)
• Movement compat: NH35/36/70/71 and NH34 ✓
• Crown: "Matching sterile crown" included; crown style (push vs screw) not stated explicitly
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — sold out; 19mm lugs break strap continuity; top hat box crystal violates moderate-dome spec.

DSWatch 38mm GS Just Case with Chapter Ring NH35 NH34 (Shunbun 28.5mm dial)

• Supplier: DSWatch (China)
• URL: https://dswatchclub.com/products/ds-38mm-gs-just-case-with-chapter-ring-nh35-nh34-match-shunbun-28-5mm-dial-color (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $79 USD list (sale from $85), most variants in stock
• Case Diameter: 38mm without crown ✓
• Thickness: ✗ 12.2mm metal back / 12.8mm glass back (both over 12mm hard ceiling)
• Case height (L2L): 45mm ✓
• Dial fit: 28.5mm ✓
• Lug Width: 20mm ✓
• Crystal: Sapphire ✓ (dome profile not stated)
• WR: ✗ 100m (strongly implies screw-down crown)
• Crown style: ✗ Not stated explicitly (critical-field gap; 100m WR signal points to screw-down)
• Crown options on listing: GS Crown / S Crown / Sterile (style not declared)
• Movement compat: NH35, NH34 GMT, NH36, NH38, NH70 ✓
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — thickness over hard ceiling; 100m WR; crown style not stated (critical-field gap).

Tandorio 39.5mm NH35 Case GS Forest Modified GS Dress Watch

• Supplier: Tandorio (China)
• URL: https://tandoriowatch.com/products/39-5mm-nh35-case-gs-case-mechanical-watch-case (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $61.24 USD sale price. Variants: 4 of 5 sold out; only "Solidback-sandblast silver" in stock (all polished variants sold out).
• Case Diameter: ✗ 39.5mm (over 39mm hard ceiling)
• Thickness: ✗ 12mm (at ceiling)
• Dial Fit: ✗ 33.5mm (spec is 28.5mm; would not accept NH38A dial)
• Lug Width: ✗ 22mm (orphans Whiskey 20mm strap)
• Crystal: Sapphire ✓ (dome unstated)
• Crown: ✓ Push-in crown
• WR: ✓ 5ATM / 50m
• Bezel: Polished smooth bezel with chamfered edges
• Finish (in-stock variant): ✗ sandblast (matte/textured) — polished variants sold out
• Tolerance: ±0.1mm manual measurement
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — fundamentally wrong dimensional class (33.5mm dial seat, 22mm lugs, 39.5mm > ceiling). Confirms Tandorio builds push-in dress cases, just not in the dimensional class Watch 001 needs.

Watch-Supply Mayfair Case NH35/38

• Supplier: Watch-Supply UK (London)
• URL: https://www.watch-supply.co.uk/products/mayfair-case-nh35-38 (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: £99.92 GBP (≈ $125 USD list; ~$130 landed with UK→US ship + ~3% duty)
• Bezel Diameter: 38mm (excl. crown) ✓
• Lug Width: 20mm ✓
• L2L: ⚠ 47mm (spec ≤46mm preferred — over by 1mm, soft violation)
• Dial seat: 28.5mm ✓
• Crystal: ✗ Flat sapphire (spec wants moderate dome)
• Finish: ✗ Brushed octagonal bezel + mirror-polished flanks (mixed finish; spec wants fully polished bezel)
• Caseback options: Solid or See-through ✓
• Stem option: With or without NH35/38 cut stem
• Movement compat: NH-35, NH36, NH38 ✓
• Crown style: Not stated in current listing; Rob's prior Mayfair kit build had push-in crown (would verify)
• Context note: This is the case from Rob's prior kit build (Watch-Supply Mayfair). Re-using it for Watch 001 would undermine the self-sourced premise of the journey.
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — flat crystal + brushed octagonal bezel disqualify on dress-spec aesthetics; also it's the prior kit case.

DIY Watch Club 38.5mm Mosel Case Set - Stainless Steel

• Supplier: DIY Watch Club (Hong Kong)
• URL: https://shop.diywatch.club/products/mosel-silver-case-set-stainless-steel (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $100 USD, in stock
• Case size: 38.5mm ✓
• Thickness: ✗ 12.4mm (over 12mm hard ceiling; includes both domed crystals)
• Lug size: 20mm ✓
• Crystal: ✗ Domed ACRYLITE 8N (acrylic) OR K1 mineral glass — neither is sapphire
• Case back: ✗ Exhibition case back with box dome ACRYLITE / K1 (no sapphire option, no solid steel option)
• Water-resistant: ✓ 3ATM / 30m (matches spec's 30–50m range — only case in pass to hit this)
• Movement compat: ✗ Miyota 8 series ONLY (NH35/NH38A incompatible — different holder, stem, foot pattern)
• Honest note: Aesthetically the closest match in the pass to the vintage Bauhaus-dress brief. The trade-off is the movement family.
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — Miyota-only ecosystem; would require abandoning the Esslinger NH38A order ($89.95, already vetted) and re-sourcing dial + hands against Miyota 8 specs. Out of scope for this build.

Caroline Mods Store "Classical 38mm 316L Stainless Steel with Shiny Watch Case" — Watch 001 candidate C (AliExpress deep pass)

• Supplier: Caroline Mods Store (AliExpress marketplace-seller)
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808203062134.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $37.90 USD list ($39.90 — $2 new-shopper), $5.43 ship to US, ~$45 landed. Import charges included. In stock.
• Variants: Silver AR-Clear / Silver AR Blue / Rainbow AR Blue / Gold / Rose. Model 021.
• Case Diameter: 38mm ✓
• Material: 316L Stainless Steel ✓
• Dial seat: 28.5mm ✓
• Crystal: Sapphire with AR coating ✓ (dome profile not stated)
• Finish: "Shiny" stated in product title — implies polished but not explicitly declared
• Movement compat: NH34/35/36/38 ✓
• Critical fields NOT in structured listing (image-description only): lug width, crown style, crown position, WR, thickness, L2L. AliExpress lists these inline in image-based product descriptions which require page-side visual reading or seller email.
• Trust check (marketplace listing):
  • Store reputation: 99.0% positive feedback, 10.1K followers — well above skill's ≥95% threshold
  • Review volume: 81 reviews, 700+ sold, 5.0 stars
  • Review signal (Sep 2025 verified buyer): "Beautiful case, the best for dress watch that i've seen in ali express. Very high quality. Perfect fit with nh35 and case back from same seller skx007"
  • Other reviewers (Dec 2025, Apr 2026): "perfect fit", "really nice clearances", "well finished", "excellent dimensions"
  • Image authenticity: not reverse-image-searched this pass
  • Price anomaly: none — mid-range AliExpress price for a quality dress mod case
• Used in: watch_001 (candidate C — pending Rob page-side verification or seller email)
• Verdict: tbd — strongest store + review signal of any AliExpress case in the searched supplier set. Auto-reject by strict skill rule (5 case-critical fields not stated in structured listing). Justified-email exception (skill: info lives privately with one party + dimensional-class alternatives exhausted) applies if Rob doesn't want to do page-side visual verification of the description images. If verification confirms 20mm lugs + push-in crown + 5ATM + fully polished + no crown guards, this case becomes the leader (would satisfy every hard rule the Lucius 1908 misses, at half the price).

PARNSRPE Silver NH35 Watch Case 40mm Sapphire 5ATM (AliExpress)

• Supplier: Gerry Watch Parts Store (AliExpress marketplace-seller)
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808773260313.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $15.34 USD, free shipping, in stock. 97.5% feedback, 615 followers, 119 reviews, 500+ sold, 4.8 stars.
• Diameter: ✗ 40mm (over 39mm hard ceiling)
• Dial seat: ✓ 28.5mm
• Crystal: ✓ Sapphire
• WR: ✓ 5ATM / 50m — matches spec
• Material: ✓ 316L
• Variants: Burnish (polished) / Frosted (matte/sandblast)
• Crown guards: ✗ verified-buyer review (Nov 2025): "the protection piece of the crown which is not quite right and the crown rubs against it" — crown guards confirmed
• Critical fields not stated in listing: lug width, crown style, thickness, L2L, crown position
• Used in: considered for watch_001 — rejected
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — 40mm over hard ceiling; crown guards verified via review (spec: no crown guards); "Frosted" variant violates polished spec. Useful pattern data: confirms 5ATM dress cases exist on AliExpress under the PARNSRPE brand but only at 40mm+.

HAYLEY "40mm new vintage NH35 case" 20mm strap 28.5mm dial (AliExpress)

• Supplier: HAYLEY Professional Watch Manufacturer Store (AliExpress)
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808411405138.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $23.12 USD + $9.78 ship. 94.8% feedback (below 95% threshold), 1595 followers, 8 reviews, 21 sold, 5.0 stars.
• Diameter: ✗ 40mm (over hard ceiling)
• Dial seat: ✓ 28.5mm
• Lug width: ✓ 20mm (rare — explicit in title)
• Crystal: ✓ Sapphire
• Finish: ✗ "polished/brushed" (mixed)
• Listing hygiene red flag: sellpoints text references "Casio G Shock 40mm Case Vintage" — wrong-genre marketing copy
• WR: ✗ "Water resistant up to 105℃" in sellpoints (temperature not depth — meaningless)
• Verified-buyer review (Mar 2026): "assembly with the cam requires quite a bit more work" — quality concern
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — over hard ceiling, mixed finish, critical-field gaps, below-threshold store trust, listing hygiene red flag.

PORSTIER "High Quality 36/39mm Polished Bezel Datejust" 28.5mm dial (AliExpress)

• Supplier: PORSTIER Global Wholesale Store (AliExpress)
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807446938747.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $28.41 USD + $3.79 ship. 96.3% feedback, 163 followers (low), 20 reviews, 146 sold, 4.5 stars.
• Diameter: ✓ 36mm or 39mm
• Dial seat: ✓ 28.5mm
• Crystal: ✓ Sapphire
• Bezel: "Polished Bezel" stated in title (but Datejust-style naming pulls toward fluted-bezel ambiguity)
• Critical fields not stated: lug width, crown style, WR, thickness, L2L
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — critical-field gaps; smaller seller; below-norm review rating; Datejust-mod cases on AliExpress historically come with fluted bezels and screw-down crowns even when titled "polished bezel".

RICHUS NH35 38mm Sapphire (AliExpress)

• Supplier: RICHUS Wholesale Store (AliExpress)
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809073608616.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $16.02 USD + $7.88 ship. 97.4% feedback, 552 followers, 48 reviews, 224 sold, 4.8 stars.
• Critical fields not stated in listing: dial seat ID, lug width, crown style, crown position, thickness, L2L, WR, finish, crystal dome profile
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — all case-tier critical fields missing.

38mm NH35 Sapphire Silver — RICHUS Watch Store (AliExpress)

• Supplier: RICHUS Watch Store (AliExpress)
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807670927379.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $21.75 USD, free ship. 292 reviews (aggregated "1511" listings — disclaimer on page), this seller: 88 sales, 4.9 stars.
• Crown guards: ✗ verified-buyer review: "with crown protection, and fits perfectly with the NH35 or NH36" — crown guards confirmed
• Critical fields: dial seat ID, lug width, crown style, WR, thickness, L2L all missing
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — crown guards per review; multiple critical-field gaps.

AliExpress same-OEM cross-references (already in DB, re-checked under dress spec 2026-05-11)

• Fanya losch Watch Factory Store "Air King 36/39mm 28.5mm Dial" (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808919306116.html, $13.50, 600+ sold, 97.7% feedback) — verified live 2026-05-11 as same OEM family as the redirected Tandorio Explorer (100m WR, sport-tool genre). The "Air King" name is marketing, not Rolex Air King heritage. Reject for dress despite the title.
• Feiyashi Store "Fluted Curved Datejust 36/39mm 28.5mm Dial Jubilee" (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808915969609.html, $29.76, 900+ sold) — verified live: 10 ATM (100m, implies screw-down), fluted bezel ✗, Jubilee bracelet, critical fields (lug width, crown style) not declared. Reject.
• JB NH35 Watch Store "Datejust 36mm/39mm Silver" (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809203374208.html, $26.39, 214 sold, 94.9% feedback below threshold) — verified live: all case-tier critical fields missing. Reject.

Mod Mode Watches CAS025 Ultra-Slim 38mm Case with Oyster Bracelet Set

• Supplier: Mod Mode Watches (Singapore)
• URL: https://modmodewatches.com/products/cas025-ultra-slim-38mm-case-with-oyster-bracelet-set (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: S$199 SGD (≈ $148 USD), in stock
• Case Diameter: 38mm ✓
• Thickness: 6mm case only / 11.5mm total with boxy crystal + caseback ✓
• L2L: 45.5mm ✓
• Lug Width: 20mm ✓
• Crystal: ✗ "Vintagey boxy pot crystal" (box, not moderate dome)
• Crown: ✗ "Slim coin-edged screw-down crown"
• Finish: ✗ Brushed front lugs + polished sides (mixed finish; spec wants fully polished)
• WR: ✗ 100m
• Movement compat: NH34–NH39, NH70/71/72 ✓
• Genre: Self-described "explorer-style case" — sport tool, not dress
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — explorer-style; three aesthetic disqualifiers (box crystal, screw-down crown, mixed finish).

Movements

Seiko NH38M — Cousins UK (rejected for watch_001)

• Supplier: Cousins UK
• URL: https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/seiko-movements-mechanical/nh38m
• Verified 2026-05-10: product exists in catalog (search hit "Movement, Seiko NH38 / NH38M"), but Cousins UK is fully account-gated for retail visitors — clicking "Buy" surfaces a "Log in to add items to your basket" modal; price is also gated. Search snippet hint of £37.95 unverifiable.
• Used in: considered for watch_001
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — sourced via Esslinger instead. Re-evaluate Cousins UK only if Rob registers and the in-account price meaningfully beats Esslinger's $89.95.

Hattori NH38 (Seiko NH38A) — Esslinger — Watch 001 movement

• Supplier: Esslinger
• URL: https://www.esslinger.com/hattori-japan-3-hand-automatic-watch-movement-nh38-overall-height-7-6mm/
• Page-verified 2026-05-10: $89.95 USD list, US-domestic (no landed estimate), in stock, non-returnable, "Add to Cart" works without login
• SKU on page: "NH38" — actual movement is NH38A (zoomed product photo shows "NH38A" stamped on the rotor area)
• Overall height: 7.6mm with rotor (5.32mm bare per Seiko TMI spec)
• Brand: Hattori (TMI / Seiko movements)
• Standing offer at site level: "Select watch movements up to 20% off" banner — coupon code CTA on page; check before checkout to apply
• Used in: watch_001
• Verdict: good (committed) — final at-checkout step is to look up the active 20%-off coupon code on the site banner CTA

Seiko NH38A (regulated) — Lucius Atelier

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/seiko-tmi-nh38-automatic-movement-open-heart (referenced; not fetched this session)
• Regulated spec: 0 to +8 sec/day
• Used in: considered for watch_001
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 (per 2026-05-10 paste) — too expensive vs Cousins UK unregulated + planned self-regulation by Build 3–4. Re-evaluate if Cousins UK price spikes or if regulation timing slips.

Dials

DSWatch Beige Retro 369 No Date Wave Dial NH38 — Watch 001 dial

• Supplier: DSWatch
• URL: https://dswatchclub.com/products/beige-retro-369-no-date-wave-dial-nh38-movement-c1-green-lume (live 2026-05-10 — the URL recorded in earlier sessions returns 404; this is the current navigated-to product)
• Page-verified 2026-05-10: $29.00 USD list
• Diameter: 28.5mm fit M ✓
• Thickness: 0.6mm ✓
• Foot positions: 3.0 + 3.8 (4 feet total — snip the 2 you don't need; for NH38 keep the 3.0/9.0 set, snip 3.8/9.8) ✓ — matches spec.md's "trimmable to 3.8" note
• Lume: C1 Green ✓
• Date: No date ✓
• Movement compat: NH38 ✓
• Color variants on page (2026-05-10): Red purple / Red purple Gradient / Gradient Green / Gradient red / Gradient blue / Green / Gradient Light blue. No actual "beige" colorway in current stock — product title still uses "Beige Retro" but the visible swatches don't include beige. May be retired or seasonally out.
• Logo option: S Logo or No Logo
• Discount codes (DSWatch banner): DS20 (min $1000) / DS15 (min $600) / DS10 (min $100) / DS5 (min $50). Single-dial purchase under $50 → no code applies.
• Used in: watch_001 (originally — now redirected)
• Verdict: redirected 2026-05-11 — spec changed from field/sport to vintage dress; the 3/6/9 vintage-field dial with C1 lume plots is the wrong genre for a dress watch with applied stick indices. Verification data above stays valid. Re-evaluate for a future field/sport build.

Hands

NamokiMODS — Watch Hands: Lumed Dauphine Polished Finish

• Supplier: NamokiMODS
• URL: https://www.namokimods.com/products/watch-hands-lumed-dauphine-polished-finish (live 2026-05-10)
• Style: Dauphine, polished, set of H/M/S
• Hand lengths: H/M/S 8/12.5/12.5mm (page-confirmed)
• Tube IDs: ⚠ not stated on page; inferred from NH3x family compatibility (page lists NH34/35/36/70/72)
• Lume: C3 Super-LumiNova (page-confirmed) — direct conflict with watch_001 C1 dial
• Price: S$38.00 SGD list (page-verified 2026-05-10); ~USD $43–50 estimated landed
• Stock: backordered (page-confirmed)
• Used in: considered for watch_001
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — Path A rejected per compatibility_notes.md lume-match rule. Stays in DB as a reference for future builds with C3-lume dials.

seikomods.com CT8125 Modified Dauphine Style — Polished (rejected for watch_001)

• Supplier: seikomods.com
• URL: https://www.seikomods.com/shop/ct8125-modified-dauphine-style-watch-hand-set-polished/
• Page-verified 2026-05-10: £17.00 GBP, out of stock (notify-me form only), hand lengths H/M/S 9/12.3/13.1mm, lume C3 (page literal: "C3 Lume in minute and hour hands. Second hand does not have lume."), Seiko-only — not for ETA/Miyota, NH38 explicitly compatible
• Note: Web search snippets (May 2026) falsely claimed this product is C1 lume. Live page is unambiguous: C3. Don't trust snippet for this product going forward.
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — C3 lume + out of stock + lumeless second hand.

Watch and Style H1227 GS Dauphine — Polished Silver (rejected for watch_001)

• Supplier: Watch and Style (watchandstyle.net)
• URL: https://watchandstyle.net/products/gs-dauphine-hands-bgw9-lume-polished-silver (search-result level only — not page-verified this session)
• Lume: BGW9 (per product title)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — BGW9 lume violates lume-match rule.

Lucius Atelier BGW9 Grand Seiko Dauphine — Polished Blue (rejected for watch_001)

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/grand-seiko-dauphine-hands-polished-blue-luminous (search-result level only)
• Lume: BGW9 (per title); finish is polished blue, not polished silver
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — BGW9 + wrong color.

DSWatch Custom Dauphine C1 — Watch 001 hands (originally committed — now redirected)

• Supplier: DSWatch — custom commission
• Why DSWatch (under prior spec): same supplier as the watch_001 C1 dial → same C1 lume batch → cleanest possible match (no batch-to-batch shade drift).
• Spec asked: Dauphine style, polished silver, C1 lume matching the dial batch, lengths H/M/S ~8/12.5/12.5mm or DSWatch's recommended sizes for 39mm case + 28.5mm dial, tube IDs H=1.5 / M=0.88 / S=0.20mm matching NH38A pinions
• Status: custom commission CANCELLED 2026-05-11 — spec redirected to vintage dress, which doesn't require lumed hands. Off-the-shelf unlumed polished Dauphine is now the target.
• Used in: watch_001 (originally — now redirected)
• Verdict: redirected 2026-05-11 — spec change made the custom commission unnecessary. Email draft at builds/watch_001/emails/dswatch_beige_restock.md is moot. Re-evaluate DSWatch custom services for a future build that genuinely needs unique lume/finish work.

Hands — additional rejects from 2026-05-11 wide pass (rewritten skill)

Reading note 2026-05-11 spec redirect: several entries below were rejected ONLY because their lume was not C1 (BGW9 / C3 / unlumed). With the Watch 001 spec redirected to vintage dress, unlumed and BGW9 listings may become candidates — re-evaluate against the new dress spec before treating them as rejects. The dimensional and trust data is still valid.

See builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_hands_sourcing_pass.md for full candidate blocks, trust checks, and search coverage. Summary of rejects added to the database for future-build reference:

• Lucius Atelier Dauphine Polished Silver (unlumed) — https://luciusatelier.com/products/dauphine-hands-polished-silver — $29 USD, in stock, unlumed (no C1/C3/BGW9). rejected for watch_001 under old field/sport spec (no lume). 2026-05-11 status under new dress spec: PROMOTED to leading candidate — unlumed polished Dauphine is exactly the dress-spec target. Re-verify tube IDs (H=1.5/M=0.88/S=0.20mm NH38A pinion match) before ordering.
• Lucius Atelier GS Dauphine Polished Silver (unlumed) — https://luciusatelier.com/products/polished-silver-grand-seiko-dauphine-hands — $29 USD, unlumed variant. rejected for watch_001 (no lume).
• Lucius Atelier BGW9 GS Dauphine Polished Silver — https://luciusatelier.com/products/grand-seiko-dauphine-hands-polished-silver-luminous — $48 USD, BGW9 lume. rejected for watch_001 (BGW9 ≠ C1).
• Lucius Atelier GS Dauphine Brushed Top Silver Luminous — BGW9 lume. rejected for watch_001.
• Lucius Atelier SEIKO Lumibrite Polished Silver Dauphine — Lumibrite (Seiko-OEM), generic "green" not in C1/C3 scale, tube IDs absent. rejected for watch_001 (lume family mismatch, critical-field gap).
• Watch and Style H1586 Slim Dauphine — https://watchandstyle.net/products/h1586-slim-dauphine-style-hand-set-silver — ~$17 USD equivalent (PHP listed), C3 lume. rejected for watch_001 (C3).
• WR Watches Dauphine for Seiko Mod — https://wrwatches.com/products/dauphine-hands-for-nh35-4r35-6r15-7s26-movement — $29.90 USD, generic "Japanese SuperLuminova" (not specified C1/C3/BGW9), no second hand included. rejected for watch_001 (critical-field gap + no second hand for NH38A 0.20mm tube).
• WR Accessories Dauphine silver — https://wraccessories.com/products/dauphine-watch-hands-for-seiko-mod-silver — lume not mentioned at all. rejected (critical-field gap).
• AliExpress Digua Fine Jewelry Home Store NH35/NH38 Polished Dauphine 10x14x15mm — https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256811919651413.html — $11.09 USD, lume not mentioned, hand lengths oversize (10/14/15mm vs spec 8/12.5/12.5). rejected (critical-field gap + lengths off).
• eBay 124800115401 Dauphine Silver/Gold — https://www.ebay.com/itm/124800115401 — $9.99 USD, lume not stated, listing color contradiction (Color: Orange in specifics, title says Silver Gold). rejected (critical-field gap + internal contradiction).
• DLW Hands - GS — finish stated, lume described as "off white in day, green in dark" (BGW9-like, not C1). rejected for watch_001 (lume not C1).

Honest gap: Taobao not searched 2026-05-11 (would require Mandarin navigation). It is plausible (unverified) that a C1 Dauphine exists on Taobao that no English-accessible mirror surfaces.

Cases — additional cross-referenced entries from crystal seat research (2026-05-11)

Reading note 2026-05-11 spec redirect: all entries below are Explorer-clone sport/tool cases (same OEM family as the redirected Tandorio Explorer). None match the new vintage dress spec for Watch 001. Kept as audit trail and as a sourced list for any future field/sport build.

See builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_crystal_seat_research.md for full evaluations.

• AliExpress Bevel Edge Air King 36/39mm (Fanya Iosch Watch Factory Store) — https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256809630131860.html — $13.53 USD. Same-OEM cross-match to Tandorio Explorer 39mm by dimensional fingerprint (12.2mm thickness, 28.5mm dial seat, 20mm lug, 100m WR, 316L, dual case-back). Strongly suspected same mold family. Crystal seat ID still NOT published on this listing — that gap is OEM-wide, not per-listing. Seller trust: Gold rating, 97.7% positive, 4902 followers. acceptable as alternate source for the same case if Tandorio falls through; not needed if Tandorio email replies.
• AliExpress NEITON/CORGEUT 36/39mm — https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807290701321.html — different OEM (39mm fits 29.3mm dial, not 28.5mm). rejected for watch_001 (different mold).
• AliExpress "Explore 2" JB NH35 — https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808609333956.html — GMT-style mold with 12.5mm thickness. rejected for watch_001 (different mold).
• Lucius Atelier Explorer 39mm V1 — https://luciusatelier.com/products/explorer-watch-case-39mm — 30mm crystal × 1.5mm flat sapphire, 22mm lugs (not 20mm), 11.6mm thickness. Different mold; crystal value cannot be transferred to Tandorio.
• Lucius Atelier Explorer V2 39mm — https://luciusatelier.com/products/explorer-watch-case-v2-39mm — 29.5mm crystal × 1.5mm flat sapphire, 20mm lugs, 11.5/12mm thickness, 46.5mm L2L. Different mold (case length, thickness diverge); crystal value cannot be transferred.

Triangulation only: Explorer-clone 39mm crystal seat sizes cluster at 29.5–30mm across cross-referenced molds. This is NOT an order target for Tandorio; Tandorio's exact seat ID still requires confirmation.

Dials — additional rejects from 2026-05-11 wide pass

Reading note 2026-05-11 spec redirect: Watch 001's dial spec changed from beige/cream field with C1 lume plots to sunburst silver / matte cream with applied stick indices and no lume. The dial pass below was run against the OLD spec; every candidate is a field-style dial. None are candidates for the new dress spec — this section is preserved as audit trail of the prior sourcing effort only.

See builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_dial_sourcing_pass.md for full candidate blocks.

• DSWatch Vintage Dial date and no date NH38 NH35 28.5mm Green lume — https://dswatchclub.com/products/vintage-dial-date-and-no-date — $22 USD on sale (from $29), in stock, all spec matched EXCEPT face is black (not beige), sub-style ("SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER" text). rejected aesthetic for watch_001; available as fallback if Rob relaxes beige spec.
• DSWatch Spark Texture Vintage 28.5mm NH35 Dial — https://dswatchclub.com/products/ds-seiko-mod-spark-texture-vintage-beige-green-lume-mm-28-5mm-nh35-dial — $29 USD, GMT-style dial (24h numerals + "AUTOMATIC GMT" text), face Black/Brown not beige. rejected for watch_001 (GMT aesthetic mismatch).
• Lucius Atelier Old Radium Submariner Vintage No Date — https://luciusatelier.com/products/submariner-dial-vintage-no-date — DISCONTINUED, sub-style + Lucius logo. rejected.
• Lucius Atelier Explorer 1016 No Date — https://luciusatelier.com/products/explorer-1016-dial-no-date — $53 USD, BGW9 lume (not C1), black face, Lucius logo. rejected for watch_001 (lume + color + logo all violate spec).
• Tandorio 28.5mm Roman Numerals White Vintage NH35 No logo — https://tandoriowatch.com/products/28-5mm-nh35-dial-roman-numerals-white-vintage — $14.61 USD, has date, no lume, white face. rejected (date + no lume + wrong face).
• eBay 21 WATCH Sterile Black Explorer 28.5mm NH35A/NH38A No Date — https://www.ebay.com/itm/374086412356 — $16.30 USD, BGW9 lume, black face. Seller solid (14K items, 99.2%). rejected for watch_001 (BGW9 + black); reconsider for a future BGW9-lumed build.
• AliExpress Pelagos 28.5mm Vintage Dial No Date NH35 (Shop1104190108) — https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808080264000.html — $27.79 USD list, ~$42 landed, SKX007/Pelagos sub-style aesthetic, face dark not beige, foot positions not stated. rejected aesthetic + critical-field gap.

Honest gaps: NamokiMODS dial catalog appears defunct or moved (multiple product URLs return 404 or redirect to Lucius hands pages — 2026-05-11). Taobao not searched.

Correction 2026-05-11 (dress spec dial pass): NamokiMODS catalog is NOT defunct — the prior "defunct" note was a misread of broken specific URL slugs. NamokiMODS Elegant GS Collection at https://www.namokimods.com/collections/elegant-gs-collection is live and well-stocked. Individual dial products like /products/watch-dial-gs-dress-sunburst-ice-blue and /products/watch-dial-wave-snow render and accept add-to-cart. Reinstate NamokiMODS as a viable source.

Dials — 2026-05-11 dress spec sourcing pass (Watch 001)

Full audit trail at builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_dial_sourcing_pass_dress.md. Wide cast across 8 supplier catalogs surfaced a structural finding: no off-the-shelf 28.5mm dial satisfies the full dress spec (white + sunburst + applied stick markers + no date + sterile + no printed text + no lume + NH38). The modder market is template-based and every 28.5mm sunburst+applied-stick line bundles date+logo+text. Decision deferred to Rob between relaxing the sunburst rule or relaxing the no-date rule.

Lucius Atelier 1908 Dial - Silver Indices (No Date) — Watch 001 dial Path A finalist

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier (Singapore, ISO 9001 Swiss production quality)
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/1908-dial-silver-indices-no-date (live 2026-05-11)
• SKU: 1908D-Sil
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $37 USD list, free worldwide shipping per banner, in stock. Marketing claim: "LIMITED & EXCLUSIVE TO 200 PIECES."
• Dial Diameter: 28.5mm ✓
• Foot positions: ✓ 4-leg trimmable (page literal: "Each dial has 4 legs for either 3 o'clock or 4 o'clock crown positions. To fit either crown position movement, remove 2 legs accordingly by clipping/twisting off the legs.")
• Background color: Silvery White ✓
• Surface Finish: ✗ "Fine-Grained Silverish White" (matte, NOT sunburst — Rob explicit on sunburst not matte)
• Indices: ⚠ Silver-applied baton indices ✓ + printed 3-6-9-12 cardinal numerals ✗
• Date: ✓ No Date (explicit in product name and SKU)
• Lume: ✓ No lume mentioned; page recommends pairing with BGW9 lumed hands separately
• Logo: ✗ "Logo Colour: Polished Silver" — has Lucius logo
• Fit Movements: ✓ NH38 (page explicit; designed to pair with the committed Lucius 1908 case)
• Used in: watch_001 (Path A decision-pending finalist)
• Verdict: tbd — owned vote for Path A relaxation: relax sunburst to fine-grained. Preserves no-date (period-canonical for vintage dress) and is the matched dial for the committed case. Trade-off: sacrifices the radial light-play Rob confirmed.

DSWatch 28.5mm Date just Dial Sunburst — Watch 001 dial Path B finalist

• Supplier: DSWatch (China; established modder boutique)
• URL: https://dswatchclub.com/products/28-5mm-date-just-dial-sunburst-dial-nh35-movement (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11 via Chrome MCP: $29.00 USD list, in stock, Fedex 3-7 day shipping
• Color variants: Olive green / White / Ice blue / Light yellow / Black / Gradient green
• Logo variants: S logo / No logo (Same AD PIC) / Only S logo no oyster perpetual
• Dial Diameter: 28.5mm ✓
• Foot positions: ✓ 3.0/3.8 trimmable (page literal: "Dial fit: 3.0 o'clock and 3.8 o'clock, just snip off the 2 legs accordingly")
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst (per product name and visual page render)
• Indices: ✓ Wide polished applied stick markers — closest match to the Mosel reference in any candidate
• Date: ✗ Date window at 3 o'clock — physical aperture, present on all variants (binding violation)
• Lume: ✓ Page renders show non-lumed applied markers (no painted lume layer visible)
• Printed text: ✗ OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST text near top + SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED text near bottom. "Only S logo no oyster perpetual" variant removes OP DATEJUST text but variant ambiguity remains about SUPERLATIVE text.
• Fit Movements: ✓ "7S26, 7S36, 4R15, 4R35, 6R15, NE15, NH25, NH26, NH35, NH36, NH38"
• Used in: watch_001 (Path B decision-pending finalist)
• Verdict: tbd — Path B path: relax no-date and accept printed brand text. Closest aesthetic match to Mosel reference. Trade-off: date aperture would need to be plugged with steel disc at assembly (NH38A has no date wheel underneath); printed text remains.

DSWatch Classic 28.5mm Dial Sunburst No Lume — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: DSWatch
• URL: https://dswatchclub.com/products/classic-28-5mm-dial-sunburst-dial-no-lume-nh35-movement (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11 via Chrome MCP: $28.00 USD, 51 variants in stock (3 logos × 17 colors), photo rendered
• Variants include: "No logo / White" at $28 USD
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst (product name)
• Indices: ✓ Applied stick markers
• Date: ✗ Date window at 3 o'clock confirmed via Chrome MCP page render (rectangular aperture visible, not a chunky marker)
• Printed text: ✗ "AUTOMAIC" (sic) printed below center, present on all variants regardless of logo selection
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — has date window + AUTOMAIC text on every variant including No-logo/White; physical violations cannot be removed via variant selection.

DSWatch 28.5mm Dial Bamboo GS Sunburst No Lume NH34 GMT — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: DSWatch
• URL: https://dswatchclub.com/products/28-5mm-dial-bamboo-gs-sunburst-dial-no-lume-nh34-gmt-movement (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $29.00 USD, 36 variants in stock
• Color variants: bamboo red / bamboo grey / bamboo green / bamboo blue / gradient blue / blue / grey / black / dark blue / olive green / matte white / matte cream (× 3 logo variants)
• Structural finding: The "bamboo" variants are sunburst-textured colors; the "matte white" and "matte cream" variants are matte not sunburst. No white-sunburst combination exists on this listing.
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — no sunburst-white variant available. The sunburst variants are wrong color; the white/cream variants are wrong finish.

NamokiMODS Watch Dial: GS Dress Sunburst Ice Blue — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: NamokiMODS (Philippines)
• URL: https://www.namokimods.com/products/watch-dial-gs-dress-sunburst-ice-blue (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11 via Chrome MCP: $44.00 USD, in stock, photo rendered, 882 reviews 5-star
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm
• Foot positions: ✓ 4-leg trimmable
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst
• Color: ✗ Ice blue (visibly blue, not white — not a marketable "close enough to white")
• Indices: ✓ GS-style angled-faceted applied stick markers
• Date: ✗ Date window at 3 o'clock confirmed via page render
• Printed text: ✗ "AUTOMATIC" below center
• Logo: ✗ NamokiMODS "X" mark at 12
• Movement compat: ✓ NH35/NH36/NH38
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — wrong color is the binding violation (no relax path on color from Rob's confirmed white). Aesthetically executes the GS dress brief well; pattern reference for other builds.

NamokiMODS Watch Dial: GS Wave Snow — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: NamokiMODS
• URL: https://www.namokimods.com/products/watch-dial-wave-snow (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11 via Chrome MCP: $44.00 USD, in stock, photo rendered
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm
• Color: ✓ Snow / white (genuinely white)
• Surface Finish: ✗ Wave-textured (radial wave/ripple pattern), NOT sunburst
• Indices: ✓ GS-style applied stick markers
• Date: ✗ Date window at 3 o'clock confirmed
• Printed text: ✗ "AUTOMATIC"
• Logo: ✗ NamokiMODS "X" at 12
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — wrong finish (wave is not sunburst; Rob explicit on this).

NamokiMODS Watch Dial: GS Birch Silver — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: NamokiMODS
• URL: https://www.namokimods.com/products/watch-dial-gs-birch-silver (verified live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $52.00 USD, in stock, 28.5mm
• Surface Finish: ✗ Birch (textured pattern inspired by white birch trees — quietly shimmering not sunburst-radial)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — birch texture is not sunburst. Aesthetically interesting alternative for a quieter dress finish if Path A is rejected.

Lucius Atelier SEIKO SNKK87 Sunburst Dial — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: Lucius Atelier
• URL: https://luciusatelier.com/products/seiko-snkk87-silver-sunburst-dial (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $50 USD, OUT OF STOCK
• Surface Finish: ✓ Semi-Polished Silver Sunburst Finish (genuine SEIKO part)
• Lume: ✗ Lumibrite (100% lumed)
• Crown: ✗ 4 o'clock only (the committed Lucius 1908 case has 3 o'clock crown — incompatible)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — lume + crown position incompatibility + out of stock. Genuine Seiko dial, useful pattern data for the catalog.

Mod Mode Watches DIA102 Sterile Sunburst (black + blue only) — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: Mod Mode Watches (Singapore)
• URLs: /products/dia102-sterile-sunburst-black-dial + /products/dia102-sterile-sunburst-blue-dial
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $11 USD No Date variant
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — sterile + sunburst correct combination but only available in black and blue; no white variant on offer. Catalog reference for any future build that accepts dark dial.

Watch and Style D1652 SARB017-style Matte White — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: Watch and Style
• URL: /products/d1652-sarb017-style-dial-matte-white
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — matte finish (spec excludes); white correct. Available alternative if Rob relaxes sunburst rule but the Lucius 1908 Dial is a closer match.

WR Watches Relax Sunburst V2 series — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: WR Watches
• URLs: /products/relax-sunburst-dial-v2-for-seiko-mod-* (10 color variants)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — all variants are bi-color ("Brown / White", "Green / White", "Icy Blue / White", etc.) with brand logos. None are pure white. None are sterile.

AliExpress 28.5mm sunburst dial sweep — rejected for watch_001

• Search: "sunburst white dial 28.5mm NH35 no date applied indices" → top ~30 results scanned
• Pattern finding: every 28.5mm sunburst+applied-index listing is one of: Datejust-mod (date window), GS-style (date + AUTOMATIC), Sub-mod (MASTER CHRONOMETER text + lume), or numerals (Roman/Hebrew/Arabic).
• Specific listings inspected:
  • "28.5mm No Logo Sunburst Roman Green Blue Lume Dial For Seiko Datejust" $10.94 — ✗ Roman numerals + lume + Datejust
  • "28.5mm sun spoke S logo Hebrew dial" $21.66 — ✗ Hebrew numerals + S logo
  • "New Arrival 28.5mm Sterile Silver Nail" $10.19 — ✗ listing title reveals "With Date Window"
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — no candidate emerged that wasn't already pattern-matched by the boutique findings.

Dials — 2026-05-11 escalation pass (Watch 001) — Taobao / 1688 / Etsy / eBay / AliExpress-Mandarin

Full audit trail at builds/watch_001/sourcing/2026-05-11_dial_escalation_pass.md. Escalation across the four sources the prior pass left as gaps reinforces (does not overturn) the structural finding. New notable supplier: Tikko Mods (Latvia, dedicated NH-mod parts seller, 18-year eBay account) — useful for future builds but the entire 28.5mm line shares a date-aperture template.

Tikko Mods 28.5mm Sterile Watch Dial NH35 - White Silve Sunburst Pearl Silver Luminous — Watch 001 closest off-the-shelf match (but fails on date)

• Supplier: Tikko Mods, eBay seller (Jelgava, Latvia)
• URL: https://www.ebay.com/itm/116867326868 (live 2026-05-11)
• Seller reputation: 100% positive feedback (152 ratings), 364 items sold, joined Jan 2008 — 18-year established account, EU-based dedicated NH-mod parts seller. Recent buyer feedback: "Quick delivery, well protected, as displayed in the pictures. Would buy again." All trust thresholds met.
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $22.00 USD list (or Best Offer), $13.00 Economy Shipping from Latvia, US import fees due prior to delivery → ~$35 landed estimated. 2 available. New with tags. Delivery May 18–May 29.
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm (per photo caption + item specifics)
• Foot positions: ✓ "3 OR 3.8 O'CLOCK CROWN POSITION" per photo caption — matches NH38A 3.0 native; trimmable to 3.8
• Color: ✓ White Pearl (per photo caption + item specifics Color: White)
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst (per title + visible radial light play in photos)
• Indices: ✓ 11 applied polished steel stick markers + downward-pointing triangle marker at 12 (dress convention); Item Specifics → Dial Style: "Non-Numeric Hour Marks"
• Outer chapter ring: ⚠ small Arabic numerals at every 5-minute mark (5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60) on the minute scale. Spec rule reads "no Arabic numerals" — interpretation question whether this applies to the minute track or only to hour-position indices.
• Date: ✗ Date aperture at 3 o'clock visible in close-up photo — small rectangular cutout between 14- and 16-minute marks
• Lume: ⚠ title says "Luminous"; rectangular applied markers appear to have a recessed cavity consistent with a lume strip; no obvious bright-color lume material visible in photos. Likely some lume on the markers; not confirmable without ordering.
• Logo: ✓ sterile — no logo, no printed text in dial center
• Material: Brass (per item specifics)
• Movement compat: ✓ NH35/NH35A per title and item specifics (NH3x foot pattern compatible with NH38A)
• Used in: watch_001 (committed 2026-05-11 after Rob relaxed the no-date rule on the spec)
• Verdict: proposed for watch_001 — committed after Rob's 2026-05-11 spec relaxation of the no-date rule. Date aperture at 3 o'clock will be plugged with a brass/steel disc at assembly behind the dial since NH38A has no date wheel underneath (aperture is structural-only, no movement plate visible through cutout once plugged). Order ready. Two open-at-arrival questions per parts.md: (a) "Luminous" in title — confirm by inspection whether markers have lume strips; (b) outer minute scale Arabic numerals — interpretation question against spec, Rob's call.
• Sister listings (all same template, all date-aperture present): White 3D pattern & Silver Luminous marks ($18), Black/Graphite Sunburst Steel Luminous ($22), Black Pattern & Rose Gold Luminous Marks ($18.80), Blue Desert Texture No logo ($22), carbon-fiber / white pattern variants

AliExpress Time Loft Store - NH35 unmarked dial 28.5mm customizable logo Sunburst — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: Time Loft Store (Trader), AliExpress; 100% positive feedback, 260 followers
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256810273887472.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $17.95 USD list (Welcome deal, reg $39.89), shipping $6.33 → ~$24 landed. 5.0 stars / 2 reviews / 25 sold. Max 1 pc/shopper. Delivery May 18-27.
• 11 color variants: white, light blue, silver, grey, charcoal, charcoal-dark, forest green, green, blue, dark blue, near-black
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst per spec sheet ("Sunburst Design")
• Indices: ✓ per spec sheet (Scale Font: Staples / Scale Process: Applied Index Riveted / Display Type: Numberless)
• Date: ✗ Date aperture at 3 o'clock visible in product photo on every color variant — physical/template feature, not addressable by variant selection
• Printed text: ✗ "AUTOMATIC" printed below center on all variants (the "customizable logo" attribute in the title refers only to the logo position at 12 — buyer can have their own logo printed there; the AUTOMATIC text is fixed)
• Movement compat: ✓ NH35
• Trust check: 100% positive but new-ish store (low follower count)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — date aperture + AUTOMATIC printed text. Same template family as the DSWatch Date-just and Tikko Mods sterile sunburst — sterile fronted but template-coupled to date aperture.

AliExpress Lucky Watch Parts - 28.5mm Sunburst Solid Color Straight Grain No Scale No Calendar — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: Lucky Watch Parts Store (Trader), AliExpress; 97.4% positive feedback, 274 followers
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808677931768.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $0.99 USD (Summer Refresh Savings welcome deal ending May 16 02:59 EST, reg $10.33), free shipping → ~$0.99 landed. 5.0 stars / 16 reviews / 174 sold. Max 1 pc/shopper.
• 12 color variants: red, green, copper, gold, yellow, purple, silver, light blue, dark blue, near-black, silver-grey, brass-yellow (no pure white visible)
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm
• Surface Finish: ⚠ title says both "Sunburst" and "Solid Color Straight Grain" — straight grain is a linear-brushed finish, distinct from radial sunburst; visual is matte/brushed solid disc
• Indices: ✗ "No Scale" — dial is fully blank, no hour markers, no minute markers
• Date: ✓ "No Calendar"
• Logo: ✓ no logo
• Spec sheet: Scale Process: Silk Printing (would be printed if it had any); Display Type: Numberless
• Movement compat: ✓ NH35/NH36/4R/7S
• Trust check: 97.4% positive (above threshold)
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — no indices at all. Spec requires applied stick markers. This product is a base-blank dial for buyers who add their own markers — a different craft, out of scope.

AliExpress Shop2956104 - 28.5mm Non-Luminous Sunburst Watch Dial — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: Shop2956104 Store (Trader), AliExpress; 96.0% positive feedback, 450 followers
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807959197477.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $11.81 USD list, shipping $6.80 → ~$18.61 landed. 4.4 stars / 2 sold. 100 available.
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm (despite bogus auto-generated "10 Inches & Above" in variant selector)
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst per title
• Indices: ✗ Photos show Roman numerals at hour positions on every variant (XII at 12, VI at 6, III at 3, etc.). Spec sheet contradictorily says "Display Type: Arabic Numeral Markers" — but either way the spec excludes both Roman and Arabic numerals at hour positions.
• Date: ⚠ Some photographed variants show date apertures (variants 4, 5, 6, 8)
• Lume: ✓ "Non-Luminous" in title
• Color: ⚠ No pure white among photographed variants; some silver/grey
• Trust check: 96.0% positive (just above threshold), low order count
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — Roman/Arabic numerals at hour positions on every variant. Spec excludes both.

AliExpress OEMM Watch Store (OUMASHI brand) - 28.5mm Sunburst Sterile Luminous — rejected for watch_001

• Supplier: OEMM Watch Store (Trader), AliExpress
• URL: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256811945624556.html (live 2026-05-11)
• Page-verified 2026-05-11: $3.06 USD (Welcome deal, reg $11.00), free shipping → ~$3.06 landed. 5 sold. Max 1 pc/shopper.
• Brand: OUMASHI
• Dial Diameter: ✓ 28.5mm
• Surface Finish: ✓ Sunburst
• Indices: ✓ per spec sheet (Staples / Applied Index Riveted / Numberless)
• Date: ✗ Date aperture visible at 3 o'clock on white-variant photo
• Lume: ✗ "Luminous" in title; lume pips visible next to indices in photos
• Color: ✓ Color 114N is white
• Trust check: ⚠ Store reputation 85.2% positive feedback — below the 95% threshold
• Verdict: rejected for watch_001 — date aperture + lume + below-threshold seller reputation. Spec sheet matches on paper; the photographed product still has the date+lume that the spec excludes.

Source-level findings (non-productive sources to skip in future Watch 001 dial searches)

• Taobao — Search results require login. Account creation excluded by project rules. Direct item URLs may be accessible but discovery is gated. Not productive without an account or a known item ID. Logged as a remaining gap.
• 1688.com (Alibaba B2B) — Returns finished-goods complete watches on broad part-related queries; returns near-zero results on narrow part queries. B2B wholesale marketplace, not modder-parts retail. Not productive for individual-buyer dial sourcing.
• Etsy — Watch-dial searches return custom-art finishes (aventurine galaxy, enamel, mosaic pebble, custom engraved) and complete watches from small builders. No off-the-shelf Seiko-mod parts at this scale. Productive only for one-off art-finish dials, which are out of scope for the dress brief.
• eBay — Productive source. Tikko Mods (Latvia) catalogued above. Other eBay sellers in the 28.5mm space (Seiko-branded SUB/datejust mods, generic NH35 mod parts) reuse the same template families as the AliExpress sellers — typically the same OEM source, just resold.

Crystals

Cousins UK domed sapphire AR (TBD diameter)

• Supplier: Cousins UK
• Diameter: TBD — depends on Tandorio TD110A crystal seat ID (pending email reply)
• Type: Domed sapphire, double-sided AR
• Used in: watch_001
• Verdict: tbd — blocked on Tandorio email reply + case arrival. Cousins UK searchable by exact diameter once seat ID known.

Straps

Worn & Wound Model 2 Premium Horween Whiskey 20mm — Watch 001 strap

• Supplier: Worn & Wound — sold via Windup Watch Shop (windupwatchshop.com — shop.wornandwound.com redirects here)
• Product URL: https://windupwatchshop.com/products/model-2-premium (variant: Whiskey + 20mm)
• Material: Horween top leather + Wickett & Craig vegetable-tanned lining (Premium line)
• Construction: hand-tied with thick braided waxed cotton cord, painted edges, fixed metal loop + leather keeper
• Origin: Made in NYC
• Page-verified 2026-05-10: $99.00 USD list, US-domestic (no landed estimate needed), free shipping within contiguous US, $500 USD min to rest of world. Whiskey + 20mm variant: IN STOCK (Add To Cart active).
• Colorway: Whiskey — Horween's canonical caramel/cognac shade — matches spec.md "tan/cognac"
• Buckle: brushed stainless steel — "STAINLESS STEEL" stamp visible on the buckle in the product photo ✓ matches spec
• Width: 20mm ✓ matches spec (confirmed available via dropdown change to 20mm — variant ID changes successfully without sold-out badge)
• Other colorways available on the same SKU: Aubergine, Taupe, Clover, Crimson Red, Black, Peanut Brown, Rye Tan, Color 8 Burgundy, Moss Brown, Natural, plus more (~34 total Model 2 Premium variants on the search). Variant selector handles all colors + widths on a single product page.
• Used in: watch_001
• Verdict: good (committed and fully verified)